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Grounds, Yard, and Landscaping
Make sure that large trees are healthy, well-trimmed, and no closer than 30 feet to the house. Nearer ones can clog gutters with leaves, and may be dangerous in storms. In a new home, find out if the builder plans to establish the lawn. Ideally, grading adjacent to the foundation promotes drainage away from the building.
Outdoor Lighting and Electrical Service
Look for weatherproof outdoor convenience outlets with Ground Fault Current Interrupters to prevent shock in case of electrical equipment failure. There should be enough outdoor lighting to illuminate entrances, walkways, parking areas, and patios.
Driveway, Sidewalks, Patios
If the driveway surface is concrete, water should drain away from it, not poll up. Cracking, crumbling, or tilting of the surface can be a sign that areas are settling. Damaged paving stones or bricks not set in concrete can generally be repaired easily.
Carport or Garage
Be sure the siding and roof are in good condition. Doors should open and close smoothly, and be equipped with locks. Pluses included good lighting, ample electrical outlets, and an automatic door opener.
Sewage System and/or Septic Tank
If there is a septic tank, examine the ground near it carefully. Thick grass around the leaching area can mean poor absorption.
HOUSE EXTERIOR
Siding
In frame houses, the siding should be free of splits, loose nails, and any nail pops. Metal siding should have no dents, worm spots, or discoloration. There should be flashing where siding and another exterior surface join. Check for mildew or signs of decay near the lower edges of the siding or butt joints.
Masonry walls and joints
Missing mortar and cracks in the mortar joints should be minimal, as should stains. Efflorescence -- a crusty, whitish deposit of salts -- usually can be removed with a solution containing hydrochloric acid.
Stucco and lath backing
If stucco is well bonded to its supporting surface, you probably can repair cracks easily. If the lath has pulled away from the building, the whole wall may have to be stripped and receive new stucco.
Foundation walls
Some tiny cracks are to be expected, but those more than 4 inch wide may indicate serious damage. Basement windows should open and close easily and be equipped with screens, locks, and storm sashes.
Presence of Insects
Sawdust may be a sign of carpenter ants or carpenter bees; a white powder may mean powder-post beetles are nearby.
Windows
Frames should be square, sills and trims should be painted, and sills should show no signs of termite damage. Look for weather stripping around windows, and a solid and unbroken line of putty around window panels. Storm windows are excellent energy-savers. Metal ones may be preferable to wood, since they can remain in place year-round. Double or triple-glazed windows are good investments.
Outside Doors
Check to see if they are square. For better security and insulation, make sure doors are solid, not hollow core. Slightly raised sills will help prevent water damage. Doors should fit snugly, with weatherstripping between the door and frame, and caulking filling cracks between frame and siding.
Gutters and downspouts
Gutters should not sag, or show signs of rusting or peeling paint. Joints between each section should close, without leaks. Downspouts should point away from the house.
Roof
In older houses, a sagging or leaning roof may mean that the foundation has settled. If you note this condition, examine the foundation walls in the basement for large cracks. Use binoculars to check the roof for worn, loose, or missing shingles. With asphalt shingles, a lack of granules on the surface means the roof is worn. Slate shingles should not be chipped or discolored.
Chimney
A chimney in good condition will be plumb, with tight flashing and solid, undamaged brick. You also should see if the chimney has flue liner. Those that don't can be fire hazards.
HOUSE INTERIOR
Basement
Large vertical wall cracks may mean a sinking foundation, but in a new house, small horizontal cracks or slight bulging walls aren?t necessarily serious problems. If the house is new, get a written guarantee of structural soundness from the builder. The floor should slope slightly but not severely. Don't worry about small floor cracks, but large ones may have to be cut out and repaired.
Look for signs of dampness or flooding; telltale rust stains around the furnace, water marks on the wall, peeling paint, mildew. If the walls and band joists have been insulated, heating the basement will be easier. If the ceiling is insulated -- preferably with up to 12 inches of fiberglass insulation -- energy costs will be reduced throughout the house.
Crawlspace
This area should be easily accessible, and deep enough for inspecting under the entire house. The floor should be covered with a vapor barrier to keep out moisture. Check for ample ventilation (screen vents) and insulation.
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Beams and joists
To check for decay, jab the beams and joists with a knife or ice pick where they make contact with the concrete, and see if the wood breaks easily. Large cracks or splits also can mean trouble.
Presence of termites
Ask the owner if you can see the certificate of any previous inspection. To check for infestation, look for mud termite tubes under porches and stoops, on the outside of the foundation, on the ends of joists resting on walls, and on windowsills near the ground.
Attic
It should be structurally sound and well ventilated. Make sure insulation does not block vents, and that exhaust fans duct to the outside. The flashing around the plumbing stack vent should be tight. Adequate insulation is the key. Knee walls or rafters also should be insulated. Water stains on the sheathing or points of daylight through the roof may indicate there are leaks or rotting wood nearby . Examine rafters and roof sheathing for signs of dry rot, mold, or decay.
INTERIOR SPACES
Floors
If you place a marble in the middle of a hard-surfaced floor and it rolls away unaided, the floor is not level. Test for sturdiness by jumping in the center of the room; excessive springiness may indicate sagging beams and joists. Check for worn areas of flooring, particularly in high traffic areas.
Walls and ceilings
Don't expect walls to be crack-free, but do be wary if cracks are large or extremely numerous. If you can see the joints between drywall panels, it's an indication of substandard work. Water stains on walls or ceilings may be due to a leaky roof. The walls should be well insulated; if you're looking at an older home without insulated walls, get estimates on remedying the situation.
Inside doors
They should open and close easily, without sticking or rubbing. Make sure openings are large enough for your furniture to pass through. Pay special attention to sliding or bifold doors.
Inside windows
They should open and close with ease, have unbroken panes, and be tightly sealed. Frames, levers and cranks, runners, and locks also should be in good condition.
Fireplace
All bricks and stonework should be in good shape and the damper should open and shut freely. See that the flue is unobstructed and not shared with other household appliances. The height of the chimney should be 2 feet above the roof and nearby trees to prevent downdraft problems.
Bathrooms
All fixtures and tile should be in good shape without chips, gaps, stains, marks, or rough spots. Check for leaky faucets or drains, and make sure tubs and sinks fill quickly and empty rapidly, without gurgling. To test water pressure, turn on all the faucets and flush the toilet simultaneously. The flow of water should remain steady.
Kitchen
Find out which appliances come with the house and make sure that they work properly. If appliances are not included, make sure the ones you plan to install will fit the spaces provided. Examine the condition of the sink and the pipes below it. Check that there are enough circuits, adequate lighting, and ample counter space.
HOUSEHOLD SYSTEMS
Electrical Systems
You must have enough electricity to power your home. One hundred amps is a minimum; you'll need 200-300 if you use electric heat. Every house should have 220-volt service, and adequate wiring. An expert can tell you if the proper-gauge wire is serving each room. It's also important to have enough outlets and switches, conveniently placed.
Plumbing system
Look closely at the condition of the pipes. Copper and brass pipes are best, but you may find some of galvanized steel, iron, or plastic. New sections of pipe may signal that other replacements will soon be needed. Good systems have more than one shutoff valve. Clean out plugs should be conveniently located. The water heater should have an ample capacity and a good recovery rate; it should operate without banging or rattling noises.
Heating system
If the furnace uses gas, watch out for clogged burners. In oil furnaces, the fittings and tank should be in good condition, with no soot around registers. The key to hot water or steam systems is the boiler; make sure it's quiet and that the controls work properly. In electric systems, check the blower. The age and physical appearance of any heating system helps you gauge its worth.
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