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Did you know that flushing facial tissues down the toilet can cause clogging? Or that vegetable scraps and peelings, even after they're put through the garbage disposal, take months to decompose? Or that the septic tank's biggest offender is the washing machine?
If, like most people, you weren't aware of these facts, you could be unknowingly overtaxing your septic system--which could mean $erious repairs down the road. So take a few minutes now to learn about the basics of septic system inspection and maintenance.
How septic systems work
A septic tank system is actually a self-contained--although imperfect--wastewater treatment plant. It consists of two main parts—the septic tank and the absorption field, which is the soil around the tank.
The tank is a large buried container that receives raw sewage from the plumbing drains of a home. The solids settle into the bottom of the tank and are partially digested by bacteria living in the tank. That's why pesticides and too many strong cleaners are bad for the tank--they kill off the bacteria that help break down the sewage.
Connected to the tank are long, perforated pipes called "laterals" or "lines" that fan out underground from the tank. As waste in the tank decomposes, the wastewater drains into the laterals, seeps out the holes and filters in the soil. The filtering action of the soil, combined with additional bacterial action, removes diseased organisms and other harmful material from the wastewater.
Septic system problems
Common septic system problems include too-full tanks, crusts around the perimeter of the tank caused by paper and other non-biodegradables and clogged drains from the house due to cooking oils.
Another common problem is clogging in the laterals. When they become blocked with sewage, paper or large plant roots, wastewater from the septic tank can back up into the toilet, bathtub, garbage disposal and other drains in the house. Sometimes the blockage forces the flow of wastewater through the ground surface. A clogged lateral can be cleaned, but sometimes has to be replaced at a cost of $300-500.
It's understandable, then, why people who pump their tanks on a regular maintenance schedule can at times double the life expectancy of the tank. It's money well spent.
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Simple maintenance musts
- Know where your septic tank and connecting drain pipes--or "laterals"--are, so you don't build over them or crush them with heavy machinery. Also, don't plant trees or large-root shrubs near the laterals because roots can clog them. Keep a detailed diagram of your system's layout. If any part of it fails, you'll save time, energy and money by knowing where to dig.
- Know the capacity of the tank. A small tank designed for a two-person household can't handle all the wastewater from a family of four without backing up before long. Building codes regulate the size of septic tanks installed in new homes, but older home buyers should inquire. A three-bedroom home needs a tank with at least a 1,000-gallon capacity. Add 250 gallons for each additional bedroom.
- Control what you put into your tank. Keep the following items out of the tank: facial tissue (not toilet tissue), filter-tip cigarette butts, disposable diapers, tampons, any kind of paper or towels. None of these decompose rapidly and will quickly fill the tank or clog the laterals. Also avoid washing down coffee grounds and egg shells.
- Avoid putting excessive amounts of soap, bleach, pesticides and other strong chemicals that kill off good bacteria down the drain. And don't drain salt water from water softening units into your septic system; it tends to retard bacterial action and clog the absorption field.
- Hire someone to pump out the septic tank every two to five years, depending on size of the tank, daily waste input from the home and efficiency of the system. High-use tanks and those in high-density soil should be cleaned more often. Another rule of thumb is that a tank should be cleaned when the total depth of sludge and scum exceeds one-third of the capacity of the tank.
- A pump-out costs $50-100 or more and takes 15 minutes-1 hour, depending on how well the system has been maintained. Expect an additional charge if the serviceperson must dig through the ground to get to the tank. Most new systems, however, have a ground-level "sleeve" to the tank, allowing pumping without uncovering the tank. (If your tank doesn't already have a sleeve, consider having one installed.)
- Conserve water. The less water you introduce into your septic system, the more you avoid overloading it.
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